Chinese cemeteries and Ching Ming
(Qing Ming or Cheng Beng)
"Cemeteries, graveyards... can we talk about something
happier then Chinese cemeteries?" Many people do not feel comfortable even
thinking about graveyards.
In the West visiting cemeteries on a Sunday afternoon is not
an activity that people do with pleasure. It's mostly to visit the grave of
dead relatives but definitely not for fun.
In the West, there's a bit of a taboo on visiting
cemeteries. This started more or less in the "Romantic Period", the mid
1800's. Before those days, it was quite common people visited on a Sunday
afternoon the graves of the dead relatives. Death became a taboo subject.
Talking about death became searching for troubles.
So, why would you visit a graveyard on your holiday? It
could be you want to remember something of World War II. So you may and you
visit Kanchanaburi and the River Kwai Bridge in Thailand. You may visit the
graveyards in Northern France where many World War I soldiers lie. It could
be out of historical perspective. But Chinese cemeteries? Why?
Well, to be honest with you, there's something to tell about
the Chinese cemeteries in this part of Malaysia. Chinese graveyards are
different from other graveyards. It has a lot to do with the way Chinese
people look at death. Many Chinese consider death simply as "a different
state of being". The dead are still with us and keep an eye on us. And even
the dead have their own needs.
Ching Ming (Qing Ming, Cheng Beng)
A good example is the Chinese festival Ching Ming. Ching Ming is held
on the day of the Third Moon 105 days after the Winter Solstice. It is
also known as the Grave-Sweeping or Spring Remembrance Day.
Ching Ming literally means "clear and bright" and is the time of the year
when Chinese families visit the graves of their ancestors to clean the
graveside and pay their respects. It’s common for families to make offerings
of rice, fruit and wine to ensure their loved ones have enough food and
drink in the afterlife.
Some families burn incense and paper money by the
gravesides, believing that the smoke rises to the afterworld and can be used
by their ancestors.
Chinese people all over the world care much for their dead relatives. In
many Chinese houses you will find little altars sometimes with pictures of
the dead relatives. The dead are worshipped and asked for certain favors.
Since the dead relatives are supposed to help the living
with all kinds of things, a grave must be beautiful too. Ancestor
worshipping is an important part of Chinese culture all over the world.
The Chinese spend a lot of money on preparation for their
death. It is obvious not everybody is able to spend thousands of dollars (or
Euros if you want) on graves. Getting a luxury grave is no longer within the
budget of many Chinese in Malaysia (and in many other parts of the world).
Not only the family has to organize the grave in advance,
also all kinds of other preparations, prayers and offerings has to be
completed before the grave is ready for burial.
It does happen, actually quite often, somebody dies and get
a temporary grave. This grave is only in use for the time the real tomb is
ready. With a lot of ceremony and offerings, the person then is moved with a
full ceremony to his/her last resting place.
What is no longer easy possible for Chinese in other parts
of Malaysia, is still possible here around Pangkor. Compared to other places
in Malaysia, a grave is reasonable priced. Therefore you will find in this
part of Perak quite some beautiful graveyards.
However for more interesting cemeteries you have to go to
the surrounding areas of Sitiawan and Seri Manjung. Graves are big and
typical Chinese. Many graves have beautiful tiles with paintings of
landscapes that reminds them of the land they originate from.
The uniqueness of the graves is their beauty. The love the
Chinese people have for their relatives is not limited to when they are
alive. It goes beyond death and the graves show this.
Typical Chinese titles at graves
Another interesting thing at the graveyards is that not just
Buddhist Chinese people lay here. Some graves are from Christian Chinese.
Although maybe Christian, these Chinese still carry with them the traditions
of their forefathers in building graves and they keep the tradition high.
So, where will you find these graveyards? And how many are
there?
Typical Chinese titles at graves
Pangkor
At Pulau Pangkor itself there's no big Chinese cemetery. However, you will
find some graves on the way North leaving Sungai Pinang Kecil (SPK). Just
outside SPK on the hillside you'll find some smaller graves.
For more significant cemeteries in size, you have to go to
Seri Manjung and Sitiawan.
Seri Manjung
When
you stay at Pangkor the nearest graveyard is located on the way to Sitiawan.
Take the road to Sitiawan from Lumut. After about 6 km out of Lumut there's
a big graveyard on your right site. The place is technically called Pundut
but it's part of Seri Manjung.
The cemetery is located on a hill slope. It's a very big
cemetery. You will find all kinds of tombs with different styles of
paintings on the tombs. The picturing of the tombs on the photo on the
right, is much more traditional then you will find on most of the tombs.
There's no objections to walk around the cemetery.
Sitiawan
In
Sitiawan there's quite a significant Chinese population. Obviously, you will
find some graveyards in the Sitiawan area. There are two big ones just out
of the town.
The first one is on the way to Ipoh. Take the road out of Lumut
and follow the direction Ipoh for about 12 km. You will pass 4 traffic
lights. The 4th traffic light is the road to Sitiawan. A few hundred meters
after this crossroad you will find on your left hand a big Chinese cemetery.
The second cemetery is a bit further away. Take the road to
Sitiawan until you arrive at the centre of the town. Here's a crossing.
Follow the direction Teluk Intan and go into Kampong Koh. Now from here it's
slightly complicated. In Kampong Koh, keep an eye for a board saying Pasar
Awam Kampong Koh (Public Market). It's in the middle of Kampong Koh, second
traffic lights.
Go left and follow the road for about 4 km. You'll see on
your right hand a water tower. Opposite of the water tower is a big Chinese
cemetery.
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